Mt.Lotse Expedition 8,516m/27,940ft
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- Trip duration : 56 days
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Equipment List
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Lhotse is best known for its proximity to Mount Everest and it is the 4th highest Peak in the world. The fact that climbers ascending the standard route on that peak spend some time on its northwest face, see below. In fact Lhotse has one of the smallest topographic prominence values of any official eight-thousander, as it rises only 610 m above the South Col. Hence it is often seen as a minor eight-thousander.
However, Lhotse is a dramatic peak in its own right, due to its tremendous south face. This rises 3.2 km in only 2.25 km of horizontal distance, making it the steepest face of this size in the world. The south face has been the scene of many failed attempts, some notable fatalities, and very few ascents. Adventure Zambuling Treks can organize this expedition with well-experienced staffs and mountain team.
Trek Grade: Strenuous
Peak Grade: Technical
Trip Duration: 56 days
Trekking Days: 49 days
Climbing Period: 36 days
Maximum Altitude: 8,516m.
Trekking Mode: Lodge/Camp
Day 01: Arrival Kathmandu and Transfer to hotel.
Day 02 : Briefing day and introduction with staffs
Day 03 : Briefing day in NTB(Nepal Tourism Board) for expedition leader and preparation day
Day 04 : Reserve day in Kathmandu
Day 05 : Flight to Lukla and immediately trek to Phakding. (2622m, 8603ft)
Day 06 : Trek to Namche Bazar (3340m, 10959ft).
Day 07 : Trek to Khumjung (3790m, 12435ft).
Day 08 : Trek to Tengboche Monastery (3837m, 12589ft).
Day 09 : Trek to Dingboche (4343m, 14249ft).
Day 10 : Trek to Lobuche (4915m, 16126ft).
Day 11 : Rest and exploration day
Day 12 : Trek to Everest base camp. (5380m, 17652ft).
Day 13 - 48 : Climbing Period Mt. Lhotse.
Day 49 : Clean up Base Camp.
Day 50 : Trek to Pheriche.
Day 51 : Trek to Namche Bazar.
Day 52 : Trek to Lukla.
Day 53 : Flight to Kathmandu and transfer to hotel
Day 54 : Full day rest but expedition leader need to visit tourism board to refund garbage deposit.
Day 55 : Final shopping day and dinner with team members in Kathmandu
Day 56 : Final departure to homeland
• 5 bottle set of oxygen;
• Climbing Sherpas for the group with climbing equipments;
• All necessary ground transportation as per itinerary
• Bothway domestic flight
• Your trek to/from basecamp
• Yak transport of all equipment from Lukla to and from basecamp;
• All required Nepalese staffs and porters with their daily wages, food, accommodation.
• Three meals per day on trek and in basecamp. Comfortable tables and chairs and dining tent;
• Skillful basecamp cooks;
• All mountain, trek, and basecamp food;
• All permit fees and liaison officers;
• Use of group gear and supplies: rope, ice, rock, and snow anchor protection; basecamp and altitude tents; cookers, fuel, high-altitude food, walkie-talkie radios, satellite telephone, etcetera;
• Emergency equipment and supplies: medical oxygen, gamow bag, basecamp medical kit, high-altitude medical kits, etcetera;
• In addition to our top-quality high-altitude tents, we now provide an individual tent (1 tent per person) in basecamp.
• Hotel accommodation as per itinerary in Kathmandu with B/B plan
Sherpas and Equipment Transport: Our expedition includes transport of all of your equipment from Kathmandu to basecamp, and returned to Kathmandu. While climbing on the mountain, we try not to ask our full-service members to carry heavy group equipment (although it is an option if you really want to), such as tents, rope, fuel, food, etcetera. We employ climbing sherpas, and high-altitude porters, to carry group equipment and supplies. For a minimal expense, we can also provide personal sherpas and climbing-guides to individual members who wish to have their own private sherpa or personal climbing-guide. We now encourage members to hire "personal-equipment-carriage-service", to help with high altitude equipment transport, both up and down the mountain.
Full personal-private sherpas-
• For those who do not wish to carry their own rucksack, or prepare their own meals and drinks above basecamp, we offer full personal-private sherpas (or, you may wish to share one with another member). A personal sherpa climbs and camps with you at all times and carries approximately ten kilos/22 pounds of your personal belongings. He also helps with boiling water and making your meals on the mountain.
High altitude "personal-equipment-carriage-service"-
• Divide the above prices by four if you would like to have approximately 10 kilos of your personal equipment carried up and down the mountain, between camps. You must provide a 48 hour notice while on the mountain. Although the price is less than the full personal-private sherpa, the "personal-equipment-carriage-service" does not involve the additional services provided by the full personal-private sherpa. This service is mainly to help get equipment up and down between camps. If you need more help than this, please consider hiring a full personal-private sherpa.
Oxygen: On Mt. Lotse, although some climbers wish to try it without, most members will prefer to have it available and we only allow members to climb Lotse with the use of supplemental oxygen. In addition, supplemental oxygen usage has been shown to markedly reduce the incidence of frostbite. Regarding oxygen, we supply a 5 bottle set as part of the full service cost for this expedition. Some people want 1 bottle, others want 12. We suggest you bring five. Our Sherpas will try to help you carry the oxygen. We 100% guarantee our bottles and oxygen systems, and test them thoroughly with the mask/hose/regulator set-up. We have our own oxygen analysis instrumentation, and we are able to certify that the contents are 100% oxygen. Additionally, we are able to measure the volume of contents in the bottle. Our bottles/masks/hoses/regulators are 100 percent guaranteed and reliable. We always have spare parts and back up bottles, masks, regulators, and hoses. All of the equipment is guaranteed to work well together, and it is easy to use, with simple threaded and snap-on fittings which require no tools.
If purchased separately:
• EXTRA OXYGEN: One large Russian Oxygen 4 litre bottle for high-altitude climbing(guaranteed to be in proper working order and match the regulator and mask and hoses perfectly): We have a 30% discount buy-back policy on unused oxygen bottles if you purchase any extra bottles beyond the 5 bottle set we supply you. $510 USD each.
Note: You may have to carry some or all of your own oxygen on summit day, as well as up and down the mountain. If possible, the group sherpas will help stock the high camps, as well as share in carrying extra bottles during summit attempts. If you are concerned you might not be able to carry your own oxygen, you may wish to hire a personal sherpa.
Cook and Food: On the trek our skilled trekking cooks provide delicious meals. In basecamp our skillful and hard working cooks prepare three hot meals each day with a very healthy diet of fresh vegetables, cheeses, eggs, and fresh as well as tinned fruits, meats and fish (all meats and fish are prepared separately out of respect for the vegetarians in our midst). They supply you with unlimited hot-drinks, the key to successful acclimatization. We have large weather-proof kitchens and dining tents, with comfortable chairs and tables. On the mountain, above basecamp, we provide you with abundant and nutritious locally available quick-cooking food, so that you may prepare at least three meals and lots of hot drinks each day, in our specially designed high-altitude stoves using our butane-propane expedition mix fuel.
Above basecamp all of our team members cook their own food unless they have a personal sherpa to cook for them.
We provide you with a special high altitude stove and fuel canisters. Our stoves are of the "hanging" type, designed to be used inside the tent (well ventilated of course). We have found these to be the best possible stoves for high altitude use, as it is essential to cook inside the tent during stormy weather. Our stoves are suspended above the floor so you have room to sit comfortably and warmly in your sleeping bag while cooking.
Our high altitude fuel is of two types. Above 7000 metres/23,000 feet we use imported propane/butane 250 gramme canisters. Below 7000 metres/23,000 feet we refill the canisters with propane gas. Liquid fuel does not work above 6000 metres/19,700 feet so we don't use liquid fuel above basecamp or advanced basecamp.
Group Equipment: We provide a plethora of top-quality, and time-tested equipment, group gear, and supplies, including: rope, ice, rock, and snow anchor protection; basecamp, advanced basecamp and altitude tents; cookers, fuel, high-altitude food, walkie-talkie radios, bamboo marker wands, etcetera. We now provide an individual tent for each member in basecamp, so you do not have to share. We also have shower and toilet tent for Basecamp.
Safety: BOTH full-service and basic expeditions are allowed access to our extensive communications equipment, medical supplies, first-aid kits, medical oxygen, and a gamow bag in case of emergency
• International flight.
• All personal insurance
• All Personal climbing and trekking equipments
• Nepalese Visa and Visa fees, Please Note: Your passport must be valid for at least 6 months from the END of the expedition and contain at least 2 blank pages.
• Additional expenses like bottled or canned drinks on the trek, tips and gratuities, expenses of a personal nature (ie: laundry or gift shopping) are not included, snack-energy food, changes to the pre-planned itinerary (such as early departure), and expenses while traveling away from the group or leader. Not included are unexpected expenses, such as expenses due to emergencies, rescues, weather, political situations, transport delays, etc.
• Tips for Nepalese staffs.
• Tipping Climbing Sherpas on our peak climbs: for a group Sherpa (Tibetan or Nepalese), who helps you to climb above the high camp or up to the summit and back down, expect to pay a summit-attempt bonus as follows: Everest Summit Attempt Bonus: $400, Summit Success: $750.
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