Mt. Everest North Col.(7020m./23,031 ft)
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The north side of Everest is steeped in history with multiple attempts throughout the 1920´s and 1930´s. The first attempt was by a British team in 1921. Mallory led a small team to be the first human to set foot on the mountains flanks by climbing up to the North Col (7003m). The second expedition, that of 1922 reached 27,300´ before turning back, and was the first team to use supplemental oxygen. It was also on this expedition that the first deaths were reported when an avalanche killed seven Sherpas.
The 1924 British expedition with George Mallory and Andrew "Sandy " Irvine is most notable for the mystery of whether they summited or not. Mt.EverestIf they did summit, that would precede Tenzing and Hilary by 29 years. Mallory´s body was found in 1999 but there was no proof that he died going up or coming down thus the importance of finding the camera and potential photos of a summit.
It was a Chinese team who made the first summit from Tibet on May 25, 1960. Nawang Gombu (Tibetan) and Chinese Chu Yin-Hau and Wang Fu-zhou who is said to have climbed the Second Step in his sock feet, claimed the honor. However without a summit photo, many doubted the summit claim. In 1975, a successful summit was claimed by the Chinese when the ladder on the Second Step was installed. Tibet was closed to foreigners from 1950 to 1980 preventing any further attempts until a Japanese team summited in 1980 via the Hornbein Couloir on the North Face.
But it is who summited first that dominates Everest folklore. Was it Mallory and Irvin in 1924, or Tenzing and Hillary as we know in 1953. Some even speculate it was British climber, Maurice Wilson in 1933
Mt.Everest With the mystery dominating Everest gossip for almost a century, teams have looked in vain for positive proof of a 1924 summit. There have been valiant efforts throughout the years. In 1933, Irvine´s wooden ice axe was found in the fall line of the climber´s last known route. A Chinese porter reported seeing an "an english dead " in 1960 but there were no pictures.
Then in 1999, a team led by IMG founder Eric Simonson conducted a serious search. Conrad Anker found Mallory´s body on the north side below the Chinese reported location. Neither Irvine´s body nor the camera was located. Simonson returned in 2001 to look for the camera, without success. It was the classic needle in the haystack search complicated by snow cover.
While the discovery of Mallory´s body created excitement throughout the climbing world, it did not provide any evidence of a summit. In fact it just fueled the speculation. Everest historian, Tom Hozel has studied images of the area and feels he knows where the Irvine's body is located. He is seeking sponsors for a 2011 expedition.
The north side started to attract more climbers in the mid 1990s and today is almost as popular as the South side when the Chinese allow permits. In 2008 and 2009, obtaining a permit was difficult thus preventing many expeditions from attempting any route from Tibet.
Day 01 : Arrival Kathmandu and Transfer to hotel.
Day 02 : Day in Kathmandu for Tibet visa
Day 03 : Day in Kathmandu for checking climbing gears.
Day 04 : Drive to Tibet Border( Zangmu)
Day 05 : Drive to Nylam
Day 06 : Rest day for acclimatization
Day 07 :Drive to Tingri- O/N Lodge
Day 08 : Rest day in Tingri for acclimatization
Day 10 :Rest day for acclimatization
Day 11 : Trek to middle camp
Day 12 : Arrive at Advance Base Camp
Day 13 : Advance base camp
Day 14 : Advance base camp
Mt.Everest Day 15 : Advance base camp
Day 16 : Advance base camp
Day 17 : Advance base camp- North Col- Advance Base camp
Day 18 : Advance Base Camp
Day 19 : Trek back to Base Camp
Day 20 : Drive back to Nylam
Day 21 : Drive back to Kathmandu
Day 22 : Rest, final shopping and dinner with expedition team.
Day 23 : Final departure to homeland.